Romance in Fashion

The coquette aesthetic was inescapable at New York Fashion Week in early September. Sandy Liang models stepped onto the runway in looks reminiscent of something a character would wear in a Jane Austen novel. Tulle ruled Christian Siriano designs, and there was no shortage of bows and sheer dresses with a playful air from Simone Rocha.

The style, which is known for its hyper-feminine and romantic look, has been popular in modern-day dressing since the early 2010s, but it has taken off in a whole new way since gaining a substantial following on social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok. Video tutorials explaining how to incorporate ribbon and lace, two distinguishing elements of coquette fashion, into daily dressing have been viewed thousands of times, and the top-liked video under #coquette on TikTok has over 800,000 likes.

Top designers in the fashion industry have caught on, and the coquette aesthetic has made its way onto the runway more than a few times in recent years, increasing its demand in a whole new way. After Miu Miu featured ballet flats in their fall 2022 show, the shoe gained a following like no other accessory and became the shoe of the season. But, its popularity lasted longer than a few months. Since then, Vogue has posted countless articles dedicated to how to style ballet flats and tracked celebrities who have hopped on board the trend, including: Kaia Gerber, Jennifer Lawrence, and Gigi Hadid.

While there are several explanations as to why the aesthetic has gained such a vast following, the best answer is because of its versatility. When seen on models on the runway, coquette fashion is typically embodied in elaborate looks that seem only appropriate for lavish and elegant outings. However, as demonstrated on social media, the coquette style can be adapted to dressing apart from high fashion.

Ballet flats have become a favorite when it comes to wanting a soft, feminine look, as have slip dresses, lace, and any sort of clothing item, favoring dainty details and delicate patterns. Arguably, the most popular are ribbons and bows because of the endless ways to add them to your own clothing.

In August, Sandy Liang and Baggu, a buzzy brand known for its reusable bags, collaborated on a collection featuring shoulder bags with the designer’s signature bows. The collection sold out in a matter of days and, according to Baggu’s website, it is not expected to restock until later this month. “Ugh, it’s so cute I’m about to spend all my money on this collab,” reads one comment on a TikTok video showcasing people wearing the bag out. “HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE LIVING EVERYONE'S DREAM,” another one reads. Before the bags even went on sale and even after they sold out, D.I.Y. versions began trending, with people taking simple black shoulder bags and tying ribbons to the sides of the straps.

The bags were only part of the look, though. It was also important that the entire outfit went with it, so people began sharing video tutorials dedicated to styling outfits around the different bags. Looks featured items taken directly from the permanent Sandy Liang clothing collection as well as more affordable options that still stayed true to the whimsical, girlish feel Liang is known for. They included long and short skirts, reminiscent of the ones that are part of a school uniform, Mary Janes, Liang’s iconic Gretch dress, and plenty of bows.

While the look is certainly essential to the coquette aesthetic, there is more to it than accessorizing. Fashion enthusiasts have been drawn to it because of its celebration of femininity and seamless blending of flirtatiousness and playfulness. It is no surprise that in French, the word ‘coquette’ is used to describe someone or something that is elegant yet seductive in nature—exactly what this style aims to capture.

In pop culture, the coquette aesthetic is personified most often in Sofia Coppola films and Lana del Rey’s musical world. Films directed by Coppola, like Marie Antoinette, The Virgin Suicides, and most recently, Priscilla, feature coquette prominently. The director is known for portraying the female journey in a genuine way and exploring the ups and downs of being a woman. Everything from costumes to set designs are drenched in pastels, lace, girlish details, and even extravagant pastries.

On the other hand, Del Rey often brings a moodier, sexier feeling to the coquette aesthetic that is highly prevalent in her music and videos. She flawlessly blends coquette with old Hollywood femme fatale by putting cherry lips, cigarettes, and everything lace at the forefront of her image. For the last ten years, she has solidified herself as being “for the girls”.

Though it has been at the top for some time now, the coquette aesthetic and everything it carries with it seems to be here to stay. Unlike past trends, which have relied heavily on what is currently popular, coquette embraces timeless style and effortless charm, thus cementing itself as a staple in wardrobes for years to come.