Psyche & Couture

Our consciousness and unconsciousness, the very essence of our being, shape our judgment. The intriguing part is how a connection of interest can be traced back to a part of our psyche. When this dynamic plays out in the realm of fashion, it is fascinating to see how fashion becomes a medium for expressing our unique identities. Our identities are woven into the very fabric of our minds. 

Many have delved into the intricate folds of the mind, but the renowned Sigmund Freud psychoanalyzed one of the most captivating models of consciousness and personality. This Austrian neurologist and the founder of psychoanalysis crafted a theory that continues to intrigue us today. 

His theory structured the mind as layers or like an iceberg. He classified the unconscious mind as the Id, followed by the Ego, and the Superego as the conscious mind. 

In couture, when a collection or piece is appealing, we can explain why by tracing the concepts of this fashion to what level it might relate to in Freud's layers of the psyche.  

The Id is the layer of the unconscious mind that is filled with instinct. The fear of pain and the desire for pleasure. It is primitive and impulsive. When comparing this to fashion, it could be argued that basic needs with simplistic or necessary designs could appeal to this layer. However, the more extravagant pieces appeal to this. Classically pretty or unique-looking collections may be connected to the ID. Anything fitting into the ‘big and shiny or sparkle-y’ category would attract the ID. The fast and easily conceptualized pieces would give quick pleasure by just looking, similar to this layer's impulsive characteristics. 

In line with the extravagant nature of the Id’s fast-wanted pleasure, Valentino le Salon 24 spring/summer collection fits the Id. With metallic sparkling fabrics, oversized feathered coats, shiny caps, and bellowing neon gowns, this collection fits the ‘big and sparkle-y’ description that I think would catch the Id’s attention.   

The ego is the part of the Id that external factors have shaped. It is said to be rational and mediate between the other two parts of the psyche. It is the decision-making factor of the personality. The ego is aware of norms and realities and is developed as a person learns from society. Since the ego is rational and the deciding factor in the personality, the fashion styles it would connect to would mirror that. Any pieces or styles the ego would recognize/relate to as familiar would be appealing. The Ego could also acknowledge unique, creative, or well-thought-out collections and would be understood positively since the Ego is where societal norms are deliberated. This level of the personality tries to balance the other layers, so anything that is a compromise or appeals to both the Id and the Superego at the same time would also be connected to the Ego.

When thinking of the Ego, Gaurav Gupta’s 24 spring collection matches the familiarity and uniqueness that this level of consciousness would recognize. The flowing fabrics in this collection have a familiar and natural look to them, like water or air. The gravity-defying element of this collection would also appeal to the Ego's recognition of societal norms, as in the characteristic of the collection that is uncommon and would be appreciated by this part of the personality. 

Morals and socially responsible behavior guide the Superego. This suppresses any of the Id’s morally or socially unacceptable urges. However, it guides without complying with reality. So, the ego balances it. In fashion, some collections are meant as statements or metaphors for more significant issues or to bring awareness. These are the types of shows that would appeal to the Superego. Since the Superego is guided by what is virtuously right and wrong, some couture, like mentioned, would connect to this part of the personality. 

The collection that came to (the SuperEgo) mind was Schiaparelli’s Spring 24 show in Paris. This collection included a tech-inspired look, with a dress covered in crystals, phones, batteries, electronic waste, and more. Another look was a white model carrying an accessory for a baby made of the same electronic waste. This collection would appeal to the superego because it is upcycling tech waste and could be taken as a comment on technology and our society. The use of the baby made of electronics in this collection reminded me of the ever-present use of technology in raising kids this year and the commentary on “Ipad babies.” This would fit into the Superego because it could be taken as a statement with a moral message.

Though we may not be aware of it, anything that appeals to us can be traced back to a principal in one of these levels, using Freud's idea. Fashion, identity, and media consumption connect with us due to a familiarity the mind recognizes. These layers of the psyche are just a simplified example of how the human personality might process couture into what engages us and why.