Aesthetic Evolution: How cosmetics define a generation
Model: Hope Knutson; Photographers: Joyati Modak & Campbell Williams; Stylists: Arianna Jenkins & Sydney Regan; HMUA: Harmony Charles; Set Designer: Sydney Regan
By Sarah Matthews
In the digital age, new makeup trends seem ubiquitous. You simply cannot log onto TikTok or Instagram without seeing trends like the glowy and rosy “strawberry makeup” or sleek “clean girl makeup.”
However, these new styles are a jarring shift from the full-glam look popularized by beauty YouTubers in the mid-2010s. Today’s more minimalist makeup styles rebel against the full-coverage look of the decade prior, but why has makeup become almost as trendy as fashion?
The practice of wearing makeup originated in ancient Egypt, where it was worn by both men and women to communicate their wealth and to please the gods. Most of the makeup worn during this time consisted of eyeshadow and kohl eyeliner, an ancient mineral-based cosmetic similar to charcoal, but rouge and powders were also worn.
While the ancient Egyptians embraced makeup, not everyone was as accepting. Many ancient Romans believed that wearing makeup, especially rouge, was shameful and associated with sex work.
This idea changed during the Renaissance when people became more comfortable using hair dyes and powders (which, surprise, usually contained lead). Despite the increased acceptance of cosmetics during the Renaissance, makeup once again fell out of fashion, thanks to Queen Victoria's distaste for it.
By the Roaring Twenties, the makeup industry slowly began growing into what it is today. Some of the first cosmetic companies in the United States were even female-founded, allowing women to become entrepreneurs and gain more financial independence.
Women began to wear bolder makeup, turning to cherry-red lipstick, penciled eyebrows, and rouge-painted cheeks. With the popularity of the flapper movement, some even started to cut their hair short and paint their nails. Using cosmetics in this way gave them a more powerful reclamation of femininity while going against the previously held idea that makeup should be subtle enough not to be noticed or, simply, not worn at all.
By the American 1940s, more beauty trends began to emerge and grow in popularity. The bright lipstick and cheeks of the 1920s were still “in,” but now so was powder, foundation, and lip liner. During this time, some brands that are still used today, like Maybelline and Estée Lauder, started to take off.
In the next decade, makeup looks focused more on the eyes, with the rise of colorful eyeshadow, mascara-layered eyelashes, and dark eyeliner. The film industry and Hollywood also had a significant influence on beauty trends, as makeup allowed women to feel as glamorous as the actresses on the screen. The Marilyn Monroe look — consisting of a cat eye, full lashes, and a red lip — became the newest trend. In the Swinging Sixties, makeup focused more on the eyes. Pastel-cut creases, doll-like lashes, and thick eyeliner were seen on everyone from Priscilla Presley to Twiggy.
However, by the 1970s, makeup trends became more like today's trends. The natural look and the glamorous disco look co-existed, with the natural look focusing more on barely-there foundations and earthy-colored eyeshadows. The disco-inspired look incorporated bright and sparkly eyeshadows along with blushed and bronzed cheeks.
In the 1980s, makeup was built upon the Studio 54-inspired looks of the previous decade. Candy-colored eyes and rosy cheeks were all the rage. The 1980s was also one of the first times having thicker eyebrows was viewed as attractive for women, leading many to fill their eyebrows in more than before.
Like the 1970s, nineties makeup ranged from natural, laid-back looks to dark grunge styles. Brick red was a popular lipstick shade during this time, as seen on the girls from Friends, but eye makeup varied from frosty eyeshadow to smoky eyes. Eyebrows also started to become thinner than before, with many plucking their brows to achieve the look.
Many 90s trends, including skinny brows and sparkly eyelids, can also be seen in the 2000s, but the 2000s ushered in their own trends, too, like lip gloss, colored eyeliner, lip liner, and tanned skin. Makeup in the 2000s was more fun and experimental than in previous years, something that has remained largely influential to this day.
From the 2010s to the present day, the experimental nature of makeup trends has been the most common theme. While beauty vloggers were at their height about ten years ago, many people continue to discover new trends through social media. Now, inspiration is taken from the past while also creating new looks like laminated brows and glowy, highlighter-sprinkled skin.
Today, many people choose to wear makeup as a form of self-expression or as an extension of themselves. While it can be overwhelming at times, the many makeup trends available can provide more creative outlets for people who do not feel represented by the “look” of their time. Using cosmetics can even help give people an extra confidence boost or brighten their moods.
I see makeup as the final accessory to an outfit. Similar to how the right bag or pair of shoes can make an outfit, a perfect makeup look can elevate the overall look and its effect. Using different makeup techniques and trends from various time periods can also add more dimension to an outfit.
As history has shown, makeup inevitably goes in and out of fashion. The popular trends right now will probably change within the next decade. Even with that in mind, it is important to use makeup in a way that allows you to feel happy and confident.