A Green Revolution
Models: Aria Makan, Thao Thai, & Suparna Swaroop; Photographers: Chomtale Chitsakul & Shannon Del La Cruz; Stylist: Malcolm Guidry; HMUA: Campbell Williams
By Chayce Doda
During Milan Fashion Week, the luxury brand AVAVAV shocked audiences with its Fall/Winter 2023 collection. As models strutted down the runway, their wardrobes crumbled. Heels snapped, purse straps unraveled, and accessories clattered to the floor. As the show progressed, so did the destruction: sleeves tore, pants ripped apart, and entire outfits were dragged off of the models’ bodies. As a final nail in the coffin, the backdrop of the show unexpectedly collapsed as well.
Despite the initial alarm of viewers, the intentionality of these wardrobe malfunctions was soon clear. Titled ‘Fake it til You Break It,’ this showcase sought to comment on the belief that luxury fashion brands must maintain an unobtainable level of austere perfection - perfection that is often a rigid and superficial facade. The AVAVAV designer, Beate Karlsson, has since taken to social media to share that she wanted to explore concepts of both shame and vulnerability by questioning whether bad quality and embarrassment could coexist with high-end fashion. In doing so, her unique exhibition has shed light on the fact that shame and luxury might not be quite as dichotomous as we have been led to believe – viewers were reminded that when we are ashamed, we express our highest level of vulnerability and, perhaps, this exposed version of ourselves is the most valuable, elegant thing one can wear. Onlookers have determined, however, that the collection also served to convey a second, larger message. The deteriorating clothes spoke volumes about the effects of unsustainable, fast fashion practices. With dresses and oversized sweaters literally ripping at the seams onstage, viewers were undeniably prompted to think of their own closets and the insatiable craving to toss out new clothing, either due to the severe lack of durability in mass-produced garments or to accommodate space for new trends simply. As the runway pieces failed to maintain their structural integrity, designers and consumers alike were encouraged to reflect on the moral integrity of their own consumption practices and the more drastic implications of poor-quality fashion.
“THE ACT OF USING ART AS A TOOL OF DEFIANCE.”
Since the early 2000s, fast fashion has been steadily gaining momentum and has recently reached an all-time high. According to environmental journalist Martina Igini, the lifespan of clothes has declined by more than 35% in the past 15 years since current culture encourages consumers to wear an item only between seven and ten times before discarding it. Many brands drive this over-consumption by marketing clothing for one-time events or short-lived seasons. By obsessively churning out popular styles at cheaper and cheaper prices, these companies can generate immense profit without worrying about the need to create sturdy and dependable items that are supposed to endure through several years of wash and wear. As a consequence, 92 million tonnes of clothing end up in landfills each year. AVAVAV’s exhibit nods toward the dark dangers of this normalization of unsustainability in the fashion industry, and the show effectively causes audience members to reflect on the haunting undertones of environmental destruction.
Other runway shows have also taken on the call to speak out on environmental issues. At Harvard’s 2023 Arts First Festival, audiences were awed by student contestants’ glamorous couture looks. The contest, titled the ‘Marine Debris Fashion Show,’ featured radical looks made entirely of reused and recycled materials. These innovative designs included a dress made from disposable wrappers, a crop top comprised of crushed soda cans, and a bodice decorated with expired medical supplies. A crowd favorite was Ellen Vailliancourt’s design, which showcased an opulent ballgown that shimmered like the heavens. The catch? The gorgeous gown was constructed of bubble wrap, rope, and discarded fishing nets. Likewise, ‘Fashion Against Fascism and Fossil Fuels’ is an annual event hosted by the YACAP (Youth Advocates For Climate Action Philippines). Models who participate in this show sport signs that call for action on climate justice issues such as land reclamation, drought, shoreline conservation, and human rights violations.
The act of using art as a tool of defiance is not new. In ancient Egypt, hieroglyphic art was used to critique the harsh practices of pharaohs. During the Renaissance, ornate sculptures and gorgeous paintings drove discourse on religion. In more recent centuries, art has been used to speak on racism, feminism, and the oppression of several regimes. Evidently, art has pulsed with the heartbeat of rebellion throughout history; fashion, in particular, serves as a brilliant and tremendous outlet for commentary on societal change.
“WE EXPRESS OUR HIGHEST LEVEL OF VULNERABILITY.”
Through exhibitions such as the ones discussed above, the exclusive and luxurious world of fashion becomes not only accessible and inclusive but also revolutionary. Rather than simply displaying the latest patterns and fabrics adorned with superficial ribbons and bows, these runway looks effectively speak on profound social and political issues, the most recent of which being environmental degradation. What we are seeing now is a green revolution: activists and designers alike are once again using art to spark change in the new realm of sustainability. As the fashion industry grows, we can only hope that this form of brave commentary continues to evolve with it.
